Yunjian (Chinese cloud collar)

Yunjian (Chinese cloud collar), as a uniquely charming element in the culture of Hanfu (traditional Chinese clothing), is like a magnificent cloud resting on the shoulders of Hanfu, narrating the historical stories that have endured for thousands of years. The origin of the name "Yunjian"（Chinese cloud collar） can be traced back to the culture of ethnic costumes. However, due to the reverence for "Heaven" in Chinese civilization, it has been assimilated and applied, thus becoming a model of the ethereal and grand ethnic costume culture that embodies the concept of "harmony between man and nature". The cutting and layout of Yunjian emphasize rich layers. There are gradations in size, interweaving of lengths, and variations in color among the pieces. The decorative embroidery techniques include various skills such as patch embroidery, bead embroidery, couching, beading, flat stitch, and French knot stitch. These techniques make Yunjian resemble clouds, rainbows, or the flower beds of the four seasons, filling it with charm and sentiment. The production process of Yunjian is exquisite and complex, especially the various embroidery and cutting techniques, which are truly dazzling. It is an extremely important part of China's intangible cultural heritage. The implications of Yunjian are quite interesting. The "Four-sided Yunjian" symbolizes all-round satisfaction and smoothness in everything,

▲The "Four-sided Yunjian" implies that everything goes as one wishes.

as in Chinese, the pronunciation of "four" is similar to that of "matter" (the character "四" and "事" are homophonic). The "Eight-sided Yunjian" reflects the peace and harmony of the eight festivals, namely the Spring Festival, Lantern Festival, Qingming Festival, Dragon Boat Festival, Qixi Festival, Mid-Autumn Festival, Chongyang Festival, and Laba Festival. In all aspects, it places the wearer between the sky and the earth.

The origin of Yunjian in Hanfu can be traced back to ancient times. Initially, it might have been a simple clothing accessory that emerged from people's worship of nature and the practical needs of keeping the shoulders warm and providing protection. In the early days, the shape of Yunjian was relatively simple. It was mostly made of materials such as animal skins and coarse cloth, with a rather plain style, mainly focusing on practical functions. As time went by, Yunjian gradually incorporated rich cultural connotations and decorative elements, evolving into a clothing component with unique aesthetic value.

During the Sui Dynasty (581 - 618), it gradually became a kind of clothing ornament. It was often decorated with four-square and four-combination cloud patterns and was mostly made of colorful brocade. It was as resplendent as the clouds reflecting the sun after rain, or the rainbow dispersing in the clear sky. The earliest image data of Yunjian can be found in the Sui Dynasty murals in Dunhuang, where the sinicized Avalokiteshvara Bodhisattva is depicted wearing a Yunjian. Yunjian became popular among the Han ethnic group. During the Tang and Song dynasties, the "Five-Cloud Robe" clothing with Yunjian had already been in vogue among the upper noble class.

Since the Sui Dynasty, Yunjian(Chinese cloud collar) began to experience initial development and changes. With the progress of textile technology, the materials used for Yunjian became more diverse, and finer fabrics such as silk and brocade were gradually applied. Its shapes also became more abundant, no longer limited to a single style. Some Yunjian with edge decorations and simple patterns started to appear. During this period, Yunjian was mostly used by the noble class and became a symbol of status and social standing. In terms of wearing and matching, Yunjian was often paired with Hanfu with wide sleeves. The Yunjian covered the shoulders, and its delicate edges set off the magnificent Hanfu, presenting a style of clothing that was both elegant and noble. For example, in some imperial court banquets or sacrificial ceremonies, wearing a black hanfu Shenyi (a traditional robe) and matching it with a red Yunjian embroidered with golden cloud patterns fully demonstrated nobility and dignity.

The Tang Dynasty was an important stage in the development of Yunjian. During this era, culture was prosperous, and there was frequent foreign exchange. Yunjian absorbed many elements of foreign cultures, presenting a more magnificent and open style. The selection of materials for Yunjian became more meticulous, with bright and vivid colors and a rich variety of patterns. In addition to traditional patterns of flowers, birds, and beasts, patterns of pomegranates and grapes from the Western Regions were also integrated. In terms of shape, Yunjian became wider and more flowing, and some even hung down to the chest and back, just like a gorgeous cloud surrounding the body. When Tang Dynasty women wore Chest-high Ruqun (a traditional Chinese dress with a short top and a long skirt), they often paired it with exquisite Yunjian. The grandeur of the Yunjian and the softness of the Ruqun complemented each other, creating a charming and alluring aesthetic. For instance, wearing a pink low-cut Ruqun and matching it with a light blue Yunjian embroidered with multicolored flowers and flying bird patterns, and strolling in a spring garden, one would seem like a beauty emerging from a Tang Dynasty painting of ladies.

The Yunjian in the Song Dynasty reflected a simple and elegant aesthetic style. Culturally, the Song Dynasty advocated Neo-Confucianism and pursued an introverted and implicit beauty. The design of Yunjian accordingly became simple and plain. The materials were mostly plain-colored silk and cotton, and the common patterns were fresh flower and plant motifs, such as plum blossoms, orchids, and bamboos. These patterns were not only decorative but also implied the noble qualities praised by scholars. In terms of dressing, Yunjian in the Song Dynasty was often paired with Beizi (a type of outer garment) and long gowns, adding a touch of refinement and elegance to the overall clothing. For example, wearing a moon-white Beizi and matching it with a white Yunjian embroidered with a few branches of ink plum blossoms, while sipping tea and enjoying the scenery in the courtyard, it exuded a calm and leisurely atmosphere.

During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the production process of Yunjian reached an extremely high level. In the Ming Dynasty, Yunjian was once a very popular decoration on clothing, mostly worn by women in their daily lives. Especially on formal occasions such as weddings and festivals, Yunjian was an extremely important piece of clothing, symbolizing the status and dignity of women. During this period, Yunjian used more luxurious materials, such as gold-woven brocade and figured satin. The patterns were exquisitely beautiful, and the craftsmanship was complex and sophisticated. The pattern themes of Yunjian were extensive. In addition to traditional patterns like the dragon and phoenix bringing prosperity and the eight treasures of good fortune, there also emerged embroidery works with themes of opera stories and mythological legends. In terms of shape, the structure of Yunjian became more complex and diverse, including four-piece Ruyi style, willow leaf style, lotus flower style, and other shapes. Moreover, a large number of techniques such as bordering and tasseling were used in the edge decoration, making it more magnificent and opulent. For noblewomen in the Ming and Qing dynasties, Yunjian was an essential accessory when wearing formal dresses. For example, in the combination of the phoenix coronet and xiapei (a long scarf-like garment) in the Ming Dynasty, the Yunjian, with its exquisite embroidery and unique shape, corresponded with the phoenix coronet and xiapei, forming a complete and solemn wedding dress system.

In the Qing Dynasty, the Manchu clothing style also had a certain influence on Yunjian. The edge decoration of Yunjian became more complex and diverse, and the colors were more intense. In the late Qing Dynasty, women in the Jiangnan region wore low-hanging hairstyles. To avoid the shoulders of their clothes being stained by the grease from their hairstyles, they often wore Yunjian on their shoulders. The Yunjian used by noblewomen were exquisitely made. Some were cut into the shape of lotus flowers, or knotted into the shape of tassels, with rows of whiskers hanging around.

▲A Dream of Red Mansions, one of the four great classical novels of China, is a literary work from the Qing Dynasty with the Ming Dynasty as the background of the story. The picture shows the Yunjian style in the film and television drama.

Since modern times, Yunjian, as a kind of daily clothing, has gradually withdrawn from the historical stage. The simple and exquisite Yunjian elements have replaced the complicated traditional Yunjian and have appeared in large numbers in clothing such as cheongsams, which were warmly sought after by the vast number of women at that time.

▲The picture shows Li Dandan, a famous actress in the 1930s, wearing a cheongsam decorated with Yunjian.

▲The picture shows Ren Jiahui, a famous Cantonese opera actress in Hong Kong in the 1950s, wearing a jacket and skirt designed with Yunjian elements.

Designers around the world have always been enthusiastic about Chinese-style designs, and Yunjian has also been a commonly used design element for them. Many renowned foreign designers and Chinese designers have analyzed and redesigned Yunjian.

▲The picture shows the pre-fall 2016 collection of a certain luxury brand from Italy.

In the wave of the modern revival of Hanfu culture, Yunjian has once again come into people's view and become an important element for Hanfu enthusiasts to show their individuality and inherit the culture. Modern Yunjian retains the shapes and cultural connotations of traditional Yunjian in design, while also incorporating modern fashion elements. In terms of materials, besides traditional silk and cotton, some new environmentally friendly fabrics, such as artificial silk and hemp-cotton blends, are also used, making them more comfortable and durable. In terms of pattern design, in addition to traditional patterns, modern illustration styles and anime elements are also integrated, satisfying people of different ages and aesthetic needs. In terms of dressing, Yunjian can be paired with various forms of Hanfu. Whether it is the lively and cute high-waisted Ruqun or the dignified and magnificent Ming Dynasty Hanfu, Yunjian can add a unique charm to it. For example, at some Hanfu cultural festivals or traditional festival activities, young Hanfu enthusiasts wear brightly colored Hanfu paired with creative modern Yunjian, showcasing the new vitality and charm of Hanfu culture in the crowd.

The Yunjian of Hanfu, as a treasure of Chinese traditional clothing culture, has gone through thousands of years of development and evolution. It not only carries rich historical and cultural information but also reflects the aesthetic trends of different eras. With its unique artistic charm, it continues to inherit the clothing cultural genes of the Chinese nation in modern society and has become an important link connecting the past and the present, tradition and fashion.