The Historical Evolution of the Qipao (Cheongsam)
The Qipao (Cheongsam) is one of China’s traditional garments. For easier reading, it will be referred to as "Qipao" hereinafter. Its development is not just a history of clothing, but a record of Chinese society and culture. Evolving from the original Manchu banner dress to a globally popular Eastern symbol, the Qipao underwent many modifications, each closely tied to its historical context. Today, I’ll take you through its three-stage evolution—from the Qing Dynasty, to the Republican era, and into modern times—revealing the cultural meaning behind this traditional Chinese dress.
Qing Dynasty: Origins and Features of the Manchu Banner Dress
The prototype of the Qipao traces back to the Qing Dynasty Manchu traditional dress, "Yijie" (衣介)—a long robe worn by all, regardless of gender or age. As a horse-riding, archery-practicing people, the Manchu designed their clothing for practicality: a round collar, narrow sleeves, long side slits, and a four-panel cut with wide front and back panels, making it easy to mount horses and shoot arrows. The uniquely designed "horse-hoof cuffs" (马蹄袖) provided warmth and, when lowered, became a gesture of respect to elders—a scene familiar to anyone who’s watched Qing-era historical dramas.
▲The picture shows the horse-hoof sleeves of an authentic Qing official robe
The Qing Dynasty women’s robe was loose and straight, concealing the body shape. It was worn over long pants, often made of heavy brocade with elaborate decorations. This dress strictly followed feudal hierarchy: noblewomen and imperial consorts could wear Qipao reaching past their feet, while ordinary banner people could not. Only upon marriage could a common banner woman wear a floor-length Qipao. Over time, as Manchu and Han cultures blended, the Qipao began featuring intricate embroidered trims on collars, front panels, and cuffs, even developing the extravagant "Eighteen Inlays" (十八镶) style.
▲This picture displays the traditional craftsmanship of "Eighteen Inlays"
Republican Era (1912-1949): The East-West Fusion and Golden Age of Qipao
After China’s 1911 Revolution, with the overthrow of the feudal monarchy and the influx of Western culture, the Qipao underwent a revolutionary transformation. In the 1920s, Shanghai became the hub of Qipao innovation. Classic tailor shops like "Zhu Shunxing Tailor Shop" cultivated generations of Chinese garment artisans, including Mr. Chu Hongsheng, who left behind iconic clothing styles for posterity. They were the first to launch new designs that boldly incorporated the curved silhouettes of Western women's fashion. Waist-cinching designs emerged, and the Qipao gradually evolved to fit the body shape closely.
As Eileen Chang vividly described in A Chronicle of Changing Clothes: "After the Five Races Under One Union [Republic], women all over the country suddenly adopted the Qipao in unison. This was not out of loyalty to the Qing or to promote restoration, but because women deliberately wanted to imitate men."
▲The picture shows visual materials of the golden age of Qipao development in 1930.
The 1920s to 1940s marked the Qipao’s golden age, with extremely rich variations in style:
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Hemlines swung from knee-length short styles to "floor-sweeping Qipao" (扫地旗袍).
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Sleeves shortened from long to sleeveless.
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Slits rose from discreetly low to high on the thigh.
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Collars evolved from towering "ingot collars" (元宝领) reaching the ears to low-collared or even collarless styles.
This era also saw the rise of two distinct styles: the Beijing School (京派) and the Shanghai School (海派). Beijing-style Qipao maintained traditional straight cuts with lavish decorations. Shanghai-style Qipaos adopted Western three-dimensional tailoring, emphasizing the female curves, and ultimately led the national trend. Movie stars like Hu Die (Butterfly Hu) and Ruan Lingyu further popularized the Qipao. Hu Die’s innovative "butterfly pleat" hem even created a unique "Hu Die Qipao" (胡蝶旗袍) style.
▲The picture shows the image of Hu Die, the first generation of Chinese movie stars, wearing a cheongsam.
Modern Era: Cultural Symbol and Global Influence of Qipao
After 1949, the everyday wearing of Qipao declined in mainland China, but its status as a symbol of traditional Chinese culture grew stronger. In film and television, the Qipao became key to portraying Eastern feminine beauty. Maggie Cheung’s Qipao looks in In the Mood for Love became iconic. The Qipao’s "Nine Curves and Three Arcs" (九翘三弯) standard—showcasing the curves of the head, shoulders, chest, neck, waist, legs, hips, hands, and feet, complemented by the arcs of the collar, front opening, and hem—perfectly displays the beauty of the Eastern female form.
▲The picture shows Maggie Cheung's costumes in the movie *In the Mood for Love*.
Contemporary Qipao blend more modern design elements while preserving their cultural core. At major international events, the Qipao is often chosen to represent Chinese culture. The fashion world continually draws inspiration from traditional Qipaos to create pieces that merge classic and modern styles. The Qipao is not merely a "surface" of modernity; it also fosters the fusion of tradition and modernity, domestic and foreign cultures, amidst their conflicts.
In the end From Manchu riding attire to a Republican fashion icon, and now to a globally recognized cultural symbol, the evolution of the Qipao mirrors China’s journey from tradition to modernity. Each transformation reflects the spirit of its era: the hierarchy of feudalism, the women’s liberation of the Republican period, and the cultural confidence of the globalized age. Today, the Qipao has transcended mere clothing. It has become a vital vessel of Chinese aesthetics. With its clean lines, subtle sensuality, and Eastern charm, it continues to tell China’s story to the world.
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