At a Columbia University graduation ceremony, a Chinese student wearing an exquisite blue embroidered Yunjian (Cloud Collar) stood out in the crowd, drawing many admiring glances. When her curious Western classmates asked about this beautiful accessory, she proudly explained it was a traditional Chinese shoulder decoration called Yunjian.
Such scenes are becoming more common. Whether at university graduations in Europe and America or on everyday streets, the Yunjian (Cloud Collar)—a element rich with Eastern aesthetics—is gradually entering global fashion consciousness.
1. What is a Yunjian (Cloud Collar)?
Yunjian, literally meaning (Cloud Collar) is a decorative piece worn over the shoulders, shaped like flowing clouds. Typically made with colorful silk embroidery, this unique accessory boasts thousands of years of history in China. It originally drew inspiration from immortals' feathered adornments, later evolving into distinct cloud-shaped patterns.Yunjian (Cloud Collar) is an indispensable part of China's Hanfu system.
The Yunjian (Cloud Collar) is not just a symbol of beauty but also carries deep cultural meaning. Its core concept stems from the Chinese philosophical idea of "harmony between heaven and humanity." Its structure often uses a symmetrical, four-part design, symbolizing the order of the universe.
2. Historical Evolution
The earliest images of Yunjian (Cloud Collar) appear in the Dunhuang Murals. During the Sui and Tang dynasties, it was mainly worn as a shawl by dancers. By the Ming Dynasty, it became a luxurious decoration on clothing, accessible only to the wealthy and noble.
▲The picture shows the Yunjian (Cloud Collar) in the murals of Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang.
The Qing Dynasty was its golden age. It became essential attire for young women's weddings. Qing Yunjian (Cloud Collar) came in various forms: the lavish version was called "Palace Dress," adorned with jewels and hanging tinkling stones; lighter versions were known as "Eaves Temples" or "Floral Collars."
▲The Yunjian (Cloud Collar) style of a concubine in the Qing Dynasty imperial palace.
3. Symbolic Meaning
The shapes and patterns of Yunjian (Cloud Collar) are full of symbolism. The common "Four Harmony Ruyi Style," made from four Ruyi (sceptre) cloud heads joined front and back, symbolizes peace and good fortune for all directions. The "Four Directions Willow Leaf Style," with radiating willow-leaf shapes, represents a garden full of spring and everlasting life.
Embroidery motifs also carry auspicious meanings:
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Peony: Wealth and honor
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Rooster: Success and merit (a pun in Chinese)
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Maggie: Joy and happiness
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Pomegranate: Many children and blessings
4. Modern Revival
In recent years, with the revival of Hanfu culture, Yunjian (Cloud Collar) has returned to the spotlight. It's not only popular among traditional Hanfu enthusiasts but has also entered modern fashion design.
Chinese designers like Guo Pei and Laurence Xu have incorporated Yunjian (Cloud Collar) elements into their contemporary creations. For instance, Laurence Xu's gown for Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week featured a Yunjian (Cloud Collar), perfectly blending tradition and modernity.
▲The picture shows an evening dress designed by Yves Saint Laurent for Diana Vreeland in 1984.
Internationally, Western designers have also drawn inspiration. Yves Saint Laurent's 1984 evening gown for Diana Vreeland, with its golden pagoda shoulders, clearly shows influence from the Chinese Yunjian (Cloud Collar).
5. How to Appreciate and Wear a Yunjian (Cloud Collar)
For those new to Yunjian (Cloud Collar), here's how to appreciate its beauty:
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Observe the Shape: Notice the interplay of 3D and 2D cutting; Yunjian (Cloud Collar) is one of the few traditional Chinese garments using notable 3D construction.
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Examine the Patterns: Traditional embroidery often uses a "Yearly View" motif, containing flowers and fruits from all four seasons, symbolizing nature's cycle.
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Understand the Symbols: Try to interpret the meanings behind the patterns and the cultural stories they tell.
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Try Mix & Match: Like American Hanfu blogger Rachel, you can mix a Yunjian (Cloud Collar) or Mamianqun skirt with Western clothing to create a fusion East-meets-West style.
Yunjian (Cloud Collar), an accessory bearing ancient Chinese philosophy, art, and craftsmanship, is captivating the world with its unique charm. It is no longer a museum piece but a living, evolving art form that continues to tell Eastern stories on the global stage.
No matter your cultural background, the Yunjian (Cloud Collar) can add a touch of Eastern elegance—it's not just clouds upon your shoulders, but flowing art.
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