If you’ve seen a woman wearing a sleek, figure-flattering outfit with distinct Eastern charm—in a Chinese restaurant, at an international etiquette event, or in a movie—chances are you were captivated. That’s exactly the allure of qipao/cheongsam.
Qipao/cheongsam is one of the most recognizable garments in modern Chinese fashion, and a classic product of Chinese-Western cultural fusion. UNESCO has praised it as “a sartorial interpretation of how cultures can blend harmoniously,” solidifying its status as a key global visual symbol of Chinese culture.
What is a Qipao?
First, let’s clear up a common misconception: Qipao/cheongsam is neither Hanfu nor the traditional Manchu clothing of the Qing Dynasty. Instead, it is a modernized take on Manchu-style robes. According to the joint definition by the China National Garment Association and the Fashion Institute of Donghua University, the prototype of qipao/cheongsam emerged in 1920s Shanghai. Back then, local designers incorporated elements from Qing Dynasty Manchu robes—such as the slanted placket and frog buttons—and blended them with Western tailoring techniques like figure-hugging cuts and waist cinching to create this new style of women’s clothing. This conclusion is not subjective; it is backed by extensive research on Republic of China-era clothing artifacts, old photos, and contemporary publications like The Young Companion pictorial.
▲Women in the Republic of China period wore modified Cheongsams.
When did the Qipao start?
To trace the roots of qipao/cheongsam, we must start with Qing Dynasty Manchu robes. In the early Qing Dynasty, Manchu women’s robes were loose and straight-cut, designed for practicality with no defined waist or side slits. By the late Qing Dynasty, robe designs became simpler, with more focus on the details of collars and plackets. In the 1920s, Shanghai had evolved into an international metropolis, with Western culture flooding in. Local tailors and designers began to revamp traditional Manchu robes: they slimmed the loose silhouette to accentuate women’s curves; retained the slanted placket and frog buttons while simplifying overly intricate decorations; and added side slits for easier movement and enhanced elegance. By the 1930s, qipao/cheongsam reached its golden age, boasting a wide variety of styles and fabrics—from cotton to silk and lace—and became a staple for Shanghai’s socialites and intellectuals.
▲Ruan Lingyu, an early silent film actress from Mainland China
The characteristics of Qipao
The timeless appeal of qipao/cheongsam lies in its unique design elements that fuse Eastern and Western aesthetics. The mandarin collar is a signature feature—sleek and clean, it highlights the neckline while embodying the understated elegance of traditional Chinese clothing. Frog buttons serve both as fasteners and exquisite ornaments; styles like the straight button and lute button are suitable for different occasions. The slanted placket runs from the collar to the waist, creating a natural layered look. The cinched waist draws inspiration from Western evening gowns, flattering the female figure to showcase its curves. The side slits strike a perfect balance between practicality and beauty, with the hem swaying gracefully as one walks.
Today's qipao
Today, qipao/cheongsam is far from a dusty “old relic” locked away in a cabinet—it has integrated into every aspect of modern life. For important etiquette events like weddings and award ceremonies, many Chinese women choose qipao/cheongsam as their formal attire to showcase Eastern charm. For daily wear, improved versions of qipao/cheongsam—with shortened hemlines and simplified designs—are a favorite among young people, pairing perfectly with canvas shoes or blazers. On the global stage, qipao/cheongsam makes frequent appearances: in Hollywood films, it is a key garment for portraying the charm of Chinese women; at fashion weeks in Paris, New York, and other cities, designers often incorporate qipao/cheongsam elements into their modern collections, with their series of works capturing worldwide attention. For more about the international influence of qipao/cheongsam and stories of celebrities associated with it, you can check out our previous blog posts.
▲Click the image to learn more about Qipao
According to 2024 third-party research data, the market size of qipao/cheongsam-related products in China has exceeded 5 billion yuan. There are both high-end custom brands targeting the luxury market and affordable labels for mass consumption. Behind this data is the strong vitality of qipao/cheongsam culture, as well as the recognition of traditional clothing among contemporary young people. The China Intangible Cultural Heritage Protection Center commented: “Qipao/cheongsam is a treasure of modern Chinese fashion culture. Its process of improvement and development embodies the inclusiveness and innovation of Chinese culture.”
If qipao/cheongsam intrigues you, why not try one on at Jianxi Hanfu? You don’t have to go for a complicated traditional style—a simple, improved qipao/cheongsam is enough for you to experience its unique charm. You can also browse our past blog posts to learn more about the history and culture behind qipao/cheongsam. After all, a single qipao/cheongsam carries not just aesthetic value, but also the story of China’s modern cultural evolution.
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