How to Choose Authentic Song Dynasty Clothing - Jianxi Hanfu

How to Choose Authentic Song Dynasty Clothing

I. Historical Significance & Key Features

Song dynasty clothing represents an important transitional period in Chinese fashion, evolving from the loose, flowing silhouettes of the Tang dynasty (as seen in Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair with Flowers) to the refined, narrow-sleeved minimalism of the Song era (exemplified in Pacing the Moon on a Jade Terrace).

Figures in Court Ladies Adorning Themselves with Flowers

Figures in Painting of Walking on the Moon at the Jasper Terrace

Clothing Types:

  • Beizi (straight-collar jacket with side slits)

  • Daxiu Shan (ceremonial robe with wide sleeves, paired with decorative waist ribbons)

  • Ruqun (higher-waisted skirt with narrower panels than Tang styles)

  • Zhiduo (scholar's cross-collar robe)

Class Distinctions:

  • Nobility: Luxurious silks, gold-printed embroidery (see purple-grey beizi from Huang Sheng's tomb), featuring crane and floral motifsPurple-gray Beizi Unearthed from Huang Sheng's Tomb

  • Commoners: Practical hemp/cotton garments (depicted in Along the River During Qingming Festival), limited to earthy tones with minimal embellishmentCommon People Wearing Beizi in Along the River During the Qingming Festival

II. Finding Your Perfect Song Dynasty Clothing

a) Body Type Guide

  • Tall frames: Elongate with long beizi (75cm+) + pleated baidie skirt
    Avoid: Overwhelming wide-sleeved robes

  • Petite figures: Opt for cropped beizi (45-50cm) + high-waisted skirts
    Avoid: Floor-length styles that shorten proportions

  • Curvier shapes: Flatter with loose zhiduo + side-slit xuanqun
    Avoid: Empire-waist dresses that add bulksong dynasty hanfu_jianxihanfuSong Dynasty Hanfu Beizi Yi Qin - Jianxi Hanfu

b) Color Matching

  • Fair cool tones: Celadon blue / muted lilac ("fading red" hue)
    Skip: Overpowering warm oranges

  • Warm yellow undertones: Rice white / natural tan 
    Skip: Neon brights

  • Deeper complexions: Regal crimson / mineral green 
    Skip: Muddy grays

c) Seasonal Adaptations

  • Spring/Summer: Breathable sheer silk beizi + undergarments (as worn in 13th-century Jiangsu)

  • Fall/Winter: Layered brocade jackets + pleated skirts 

d) Modern Fusion

  • Office: Streamlined beizi (no ties) + tailored trouser

  • Casual: Short beizi + high-rise jeans

  • Formal: Embroidered wide-sleeve robe + satin maxi skirt

III. Song Dynasty Clothing Purchase Guide

Pitfall Alerts:

  • "Two-panel skirts ≠ Song style" (Actually Ming dynasty! Authentic Song cuts are trapezoidal)

  • "Wide sleeves for daily wear?" (Even Song nobles reserved these for ceremonies – probably found them impractical too!)

Fabric Tests:

  • Real silk: Smells like burnt hair (that's the protein!), crumbly ash
    PS: Don't test on others' clothes!

  • Synthetics: Static-prone, stuffy in heat

IV. Final Notes

More than historical artifacts, Song dynasty clothing offers endless inspiration for contemporary wardrobes. With these tailored tips, everyone can cultivate their own "Song aesthetic".

Coming next: We'll review 3 trustworthy brands (from affordable to luxury) to help you dodge costume fails!Welcome to our store Jian Xi Han Fu to purchase Song Dynasty clothing!

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