Why Can Duijin in Hanfu Charm for Thousands of Years?
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Why Can Duijin in Hanfu Charm for Thousands of Years?
Hanfu, that picturesque traditional clothing, carries thousands of years of cultural heritage and aesthetic taste of the Chinese nation. And among them, the duijin style, with its unique charm, shines brightly in the long river of history.
In the distant ancient times, the rudiment of duijin had quietly emerged. As early as the Neolithic Age, ancestors made simple clothes with materials such as animal skins and leaves. Duijin might have just naturally formed for the convenience of wearing and activities, and there was no clear design concept yet.
At that time, duijin might have just simply aligned two pieces of fabric in front of the chest and tied and fixed them with animal skin strips or plant fibers. Its style was extremely simple, without too much decoration, but it met the most basic needs of ancestors for covering the body and keeping warm.
In the pre-Qin period, duijin clothing gradually became a common form of wearing. Mostly made of natural fibers such as linen and kudzu, the production process was relatively simple. Duijin tops were matched with long skirts or trousers, and the overall style was simple and plain.
At this time, duijin tops were usually straight-tube-shaped, without too much waist-cinching design. The colors were also relatively single, mostly natural linen or kudzu colors. People's hairstyles were mostly simple bun, and they might wear a small amount of jade ornaments to show their status and position. The duijin clothing of nobles might use more refined materials and production processes, such as decorating the neckline and cuffs with silk, while ordinary people could only wear relatively rough clothes.
The Han Dynasty was a key stage in the development of duijin in Hanfu. With the widespread application of silk, the materials and production processes of duijin clothing were greatly improved. The styles were more diverse, with distinctions between long clothes and short clothes. Long clothes were usually matched with long skirts, appearing elegant and generous; short clothes were more convenient for activities and suitable for daily labor. At the same time, duijin clothing in the Han Dynasty was often matched with belts, which could not only fix the clothes but also highlight the body curve.
Duijin clothing for women was particularly exquisite in the Han Dynasty. Tops made of colorful silk, accompanied by exquisite embroidery and decorations, showed the elegant temperament of women. Their hairstyles were also more complex and diverse, such as buns and hanging fringes, and wearing accessories such as beaded flowers and hair ornaments added more charm to women.
Duijin clothing for men was more atmospheric and stable. Duijin robes were matched with long trousers, a wide belt was tied around the waist, and a crown hat was worn, showing the heroic spirit of men in the Han Dynasty. In the Han Dynasty, duijin clothing was not only a daily wear but also played an important role in ceremonial occasions.
It is said that when Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, Liu Che, was on an outing, he saw a man wearing a duijin robe. The man was graceful and had an extraordinary temperament. Emperor Wu highly praised him. After returning to the palace, he ordered the men in the palace to imitate this kind of wearing. Since then, duijin clothing has become more popular in the court of the Han Dynasty.
The Tang Dynasty, a prosperous and culturally diverse era, duijin in Hanfu also reached a new height during this period.
Duijin clothing in the Tang Dynasty was more gorgeous and rich in colors. Women's duijin short tops were often matched with high-waisted long skirts. The skirt waist was tightly tied, highlighting the graceful figure of women. Wearing a silk scarf on the outside and fluttering with the wind added a touch of agility and beauty. Duijin short tops had various styles, with different neckline designs such as round necks, square necks, and oblique necks. The cuffs also had distinctions between narrow sleeves and wide sleeves. In terms of colors, there were bright red, pink, purple, etc., and often accompanied by golden embroidery and decorations.
Women's hairstyles were diverse, such as high buns and fallen horse buns. Wearing gorgeous hair ornaments and jewels, such as gold hairpins and jade rings, showed the grace and luxury of women in the Tang Dynasty.
Duijin clothing for men was also not inferior. Duijin robes were matched with long trousers, a jade belt was tied around the waist, and a black gauze cap was worn, fully showing the heroic spirit of men in the Tang Dynasty. The materials of duijin robes included silk, brocade, etc., with exquisite patterns embroidered on them, such as dragons and phoenixes, flowers, etc.
In the Tang Dynasty, duijin clothing was not only widely popular in China but also spread to neighboring countries, having a profound impact on the clothing culture of East Asia.
It is recorded that the poet Li Bai often wore a duijin robe, with a wine gourd tied around his waist, wandering among the mountains and rivers, reciting poems and painting. His unrestrained and unruly nature and the elegant beauty of duijin clothing complemented each other, becoming a beautiful landscape of Tang culture.
During the Song Dynasty, duijin clothing tended to be simple. The social atmosphere of this period paid more attention to restraint and subtlety, and duijin clothing also reflected this aesthetic concept.
Women's duijin narrow-sleeved tops were matched with capelets and long skirts, appearing dignified and beautiful. Capelets were one of the representative clothing for women in the Song Dynasty. Its length was moderate, which could keep warm and not be too cumbersome. The materials of duijin tops were mostly silk or cotton, and the colors were mainly elegant, such as light blue and light pink. The design of narrow sleeves was more simple and generous and also convenient for activities. The hairstyle was simple, usually a bun or a coiled hair, and wearing elegant hair ornaments such as beaded flowers and jade hairpins.In the picture above is a typical combination of women's Hanfu in the Song Dynasty. Among them, the woman is wearing a short beizi that reaches to the knees on the outside. Similarly, it is also one of the forms of the front-opening style of Hanfu.
Duijin clothing for men was mainly elegant. Duijin long gowns were matched with long trousers, and wearing a headscarf showed the refined temperament of scholars in the Song Dynasty. The colors of duijin long gowns were mostly white, gray, black, etc., without too much decoration. Men in the Song Dynasty paid attention to cultural cultivation, and the simple style of duijin clothing also reflected their pursuit of inner qualities.
The famous poet Su Shi, when he was demoted to Huangzhou, often wore a duijin long gown and strolled by the river, thinking about life. Duijin clothing also often appeared in his poems. For example, in "Bamboo stick and straw sandals are lighter than a horse. Who is afraid? Wearing a straw raincoat, I spend my life in misty rain." The "straw sandals" and "raincoat" together with duijin clothing formed Su Shi's open-minded and transcendent image.
During the Yuan Dynasty, due to the rule of the Mongols, duijin in Hanfu was influenced to a certain extent. During this period, duijin clothing was looser in style and more vivid in color.
Women's loose duijin tops were matched with long skirts and a fur cape was worn on the outside. The neckline of the loose duijin top was larger, and the sleeves were also relatively loose, convenient for activities. The skirt hem of the long skirt was wider, swaying gracefully when walking. Hairstyles were mostly braids, and wearing accessories with ethnic characteristics such as agate and coral. Women's duijin clothing in the Yuan Dynasty integrated the styles of the Mongols and the Han people, retaining the elegance of Han clothing while adding the boldness of Mongolian clothing.
Men's duijin robes were matched with long trousers, a leather belt was tied around the waist, and a leather hat was worn. Duijin clothing for men in the Yuan Dynasty paid more attention to practicality. The use of materials such as fur also reflected the characteristics of grassland ethnic groups.
During the Ming Dynasty, duijin in Hanfu regained its former glory. Duijin clothing in the Ming Dynasty was exquisitely made with complex craftsmanship.
Women's duijin tops were matched with mamian skirts and a cape was worn on the outside. The neckline and cuffs of duijin tops were often embroidered with exquisite patterns such as flowers and birds, landscapes, etc. Horse-face skirts were one of the representative clothing for women in the Ming Dynasty. Its skirt hem was wide and the pleats were fine, showing a dignified and atmospheric style. The hairstyle was exquisite, such as Di bun, etc., and wearing various gold and silver jewelry such as earrings, necklaces, bracelets, etc.
Duijin clothing for men paid more attention to details. Duijin robes were matched with long trousers, and wearing a crown hat or a headscarf. The embroidery and decorations on the neckline and cuffs were more exquisite, reflecting the exquisite life of the Ming Dynasty. In the Ming Dynasty, duijin clothing was not only a daily wear but also played an important role in important occasions such as weddings and sacrifices.
It is said that when Yu Qian, a famous official in the Ming Dynasty, was defending the capital, he wore a duijin robe and commanded the battle calmly and self-possessed. His bravery and perseverance contrasted with the solemn beauty of duijin clothing, becoming a beautiful story in the history of the Ming Dynasty.
In modern society, duijin in Hanfu, as an important part of traditional culture, has received more and more attention and love. Many young people begin to wear duijin in Hanfu and participate in various traditional cultural activities such as Hanfu festivals and sacrificial ceremonies.
At the same time, modern designers are also constantly innovating and developing duijin in Hanfu. They combine the traditional duijin style with modern fashion elements and design many duijin clothing in Hanfu that not only have traditional cultural charm but also conform to modern aesthetics. These clothing have made bold innovations in terms of style, material, and color, injecting new vitality into the inheritance and development of duijin in Hanfu.
Duijin in Hanfu has gone through thousands of years of development and witnessed the rise and fall, honor and disgrace of the Chinese nation. It is not only a kind of clothing but also an important carrier of Chinese traditional culture. Duijin clothing in each period has its unique charm and reflects the characteristics of politics, economy, culture and other aspects of society at that time.
In modern society, we should pay more attention to and inherit duijin in Hanfu, this traditional cultural treasure. Let's wear duijin in Hanfu, feel the charm of traditional culture, and inherit the excellent traditions of the Chinese nation.