Do you know about Hanfu and Kimono?
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I. Hanfu: The Magnificent Chapter of Chinese Traditional Clothing over Thousands of Years
(I) Origin and Development
Hanfu, the traditional garb of the Chinese nation, traces its roots back to antiquity. As noted in "The Book of Changes - Xi Ci Xia", "Emperor Huang, Yao and Shun wore clothes with upper and lower parts, and thus the world was well-governed. This was probably inspired by the principles of Qian (Heaven) and Kun (Earth)." This early form of clothing embodied the philosophical concept of the natural order, with the upper garment symbolizing heaven and the lower skirt representing earth, reflecting the ancient Chinese reverence for nature.
Over the centuries, Hanfu evolved through successive dynasties. In the Zhou Dynasty, the clothing system became more elaborate, with the establishment of the ceremonial robe system. Different ranks of nobles wore specific ceremonial robes on significant occasions, such as sacrifices and court assemblies, with strict regulations on color, pattern, and style. This laid the foundation for the ceremonial clothing of later eras.
During the Qin and Han Dynasties, Hanfu styles diversified. The curved-front deep robe gained popularity, its wrapped-front design enhancing both aesthetic appeal and compliance with etiquette. Concurrently, advancements in textile technology led to the widespread use of silk in Hanfu production, endowing it with a more opulent texture.
In the Wei, Jin, and Southern and Northern Dynasties, cultural exchanges influenced Hanfu, introducing elements of ethnic minority clothing styles. The resulting looser, more flowing garments reflected the era's liberated social thought and evolving aesthetic sensibilities.
The Tang Dynasty witnessed a pinnacle in Hanfu development, characterized by magnificent styles and vibrant colors. Ru skirts, such as the high-waisted and chest-high varieties, were in vogue, often crafted from sumptuous brocades and adorned with intricate embroideries, epitomizing the prosperity and openness of the era.
The Song and Yuan Dynasties saw a shift towards simpler, more subdued Hanfu styles, influenced by Neo-Confucianism. The beizi, a practical and understated garment, became a common choice for women, influencing the development of everyday Hanfu.
The Ming Dynasty revived and refined traditional Hanfu, with advanced embroidery techniques like gold weaving and Zhuanghua reaching new heights of artistry. The dragon robes and other ceremonial garments of this period were a testament to the dynasty's grandeur and cultural sophistication.
(II) Manufacturing Techniques
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Fabric Selection
Hanfu employs a diverse range of fabrics. Silk, prized for its softness, smoothness, and lustrous sheen, is favored for ceremonial and high-end wear. Leno silk, for instance, is suitable for summer Hanfu due to its lightness and breathability, while satin, with its thick texture and fine grain, is ideal for winter robes and cloaks. Cotton, known for its comfort and absorbency, is commonly used in everyday Hanfu, and hemp, valued for its durability and heat dissipation, was historically favored by the working classes. -
Cutting Techniques
Hanfu adheres to traditional flat cutting methods, emphasizing overall harmony and a subtle expression of the body's curves. The upper garment typically features a right lapel with overlapping front, and collars, cuffs, and other areas are often embellished with decorative borders. Skirts come in various styles, such as pleated skirts with different pleat patterns, including the elegant horse-face skirt, which showcases rich layers and a sense of movement. -
Embroidery Techniques
Embroidery is a hallmark of Hanfu craftsmanship, with a rich repertoire of stitches, including flat stitch, chain stitch, and satin stitch. Patterns range from mythical creatures like dragons and phoenixes to natural motifs such as flowers, birds, and landscapes, each carrying symbolic meanings of good fortune, prosperity, and harmony. Intricate embroideries transform Hanfu into wearable works of art, embodying both technical skill and cultural significance.
(III) Fashion Trends
In recent years, Hanfu has experienced a resurgence in popularity, particularly among the younger generation. Simplified and comfortable daily-wear Hanfu, such as modified ru skirts and beizi, have become trendy choices for casual outings, blending traditional charm with modern convenience.
During traditional festivals and cultural events, people often opt for more elaborate Hanfu ceremonial attire, participating in activities like coming-of-age ceremonies and weddings, thereby reviving and preserving traditional cultural practices.
Hanfu has also found its way into the tourism and photography industries, with many scenic spots offering Hanfu rental and photo opportunities. This has further enhanced its cultural visibility and appeal, both at home and abroad.
On the international stage, Hanfu is gradually garnering attention, with its unique oriental aesthetic making appearances in fashion shows and cultural exchanges, serving as a cultural ambassador for China.
II. Kimono: The Treasure of Japanese Traditional Clothing
(I) Origin and Development
The kimono has its origins in Japan's Yayoi period, initially influenced by the clothing styles of China's Wu region. As described in "The Records of the Wei Dynasty - Biography of the Japanese", the early Japanese clothing was relatively simple. However, with increased cultural exchanges with China, Japan assimilated textile techniques, clothing designs, and color concepts, gradually evolving its native clothing.
In the Nara period, Japan embraced elements of Tang Dynasty culture, leading to the development of a more refined kimono system. The Twelve-layered Robe emerged as a symbol of courtly elegance, featuring intricate color combinations and patterns.
During the Heian period, the kimono evolved into a more delicate and refined form, with an emphasis on natural motifs and literary references in its designs. The cuffs, collars, and hems were often adorned with exquisite embroideries and prints, reflecting the Japanese aesthetic appreciation of nature and refinement.
The Kamakura and Muromachi periods saw the influence of the samurai class on kimono design, leading to a shift towards simpler, more practical styles that facilitated movement. This period also witnessed the integration of local Japanese elements, forging a distinct national identity in clothing.
In the Edo period, the kimono became widely accessible to the general public, with various regional and occupational styles emerging. Concurrently, advancements in textile dyeing and embroidery techniques, such as Yuzen dyeing and katazome, enhanced the artistic value of kimono fabrics.
(II) Manufacturing Techniques
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Fabric Features
Kimono fabrics include silk, cotton, hemp, and modern synthetics. Japanese silk, like pure silk, is renowned for its fine texture, soft luster, and excellent drape, making it a preferred choice for high-quality kimono. Cotton offers comfort and versatility, while hemp is favored for its breathability in summer wear. Japanese dyeing techniques, such as Yuzen and katazome, are renowned for their ability to produce intricate and vivid patterns, adding to the allure of kimono fabrics. -
Cutting and Sewing
Kimono cutting employs a flat method, with a focus on loose, flowing lines and a sense of wrapping the body. The sleeves are wide and square, attached to the body through precise folding and sewing, creating a characteristic silhouette. Seams are meticulously executed, especially in areas like the collar, cuffs, and obi, with many high-end kimono featuring hand-sewn details and decorative stitching. -
Decorative Techniques
In addition to dyeing, kimono decoration encompasses embroidery, quilting, and gold and silver foil appliqué. Embroidery patterns range from natural elements to family crests, with techniques like seed stitch and couching stitch adding depth and dimension. Quilting is used to enhance the structure and visual appeal of certain areas, while gold and silver foil appliqué imparts a sense of luxury and formality to high-end kimono.
(III) Fashion Trends
In modern Japan, the kimono remains an integral part of cultural traditions, worn on special occasions such as coming-of-age ceremonies, weddings, and festivals. These occasions demand strict adherence to traditional styles and color symbolism, with white symbolizing purity in weddings and black denoting mourning in funerals.
Internationally, the kimono has captured the imagination of the fashion world. Designers have incorporated kimono elements into modern collections, introducing a touch of Japanese elegance to global runways. This has led to a renewed interest in kimono-inspired fashion, appealing to a younger, more fashion-forward audience.
In Japan, efforts are also underway to promote the kimono in everyday life, with the development of more casual and wearable styles, ensuring its continued relevance and evolution in contemporary society.
III. Hanfu and Kimono: The Integration and Differences in Cultural Connotations
Hanfu and kimono, as prominent representatives of East Asian traditional clothing, share certain cultural affinities while also possessing distinct characteristics.
Culturally, both have been influenced by ancient Chinese thought and etiquette, with clothing serving as a means of expressing social hierarchy and cultural norms. However, Hanfu embodies a broader and more profound cultural heritage, reflecting the philosophical, moral, and artistic traditions of Chinese civilization. Concepts such as the Yin-Yang Five Elements and the unity of heaven and man are subtly expressed in its designs.
In contrast, the kimono is deeply intertwined with Japanese indigenous culture, including Shinto beliefs and the Bushido spirit. Its color symbolism and pattern motifs are often rooted in Japanese mythology, nature worship, and social traditions.
Aesthetically, both appreciate the beauty of nature, yet their expressions differ. Hanfu's patterns and colors are rich and diverse, evolving over dynasties to reflect changing tastes and cultural trends. The kimono, on the other hand, emphasizes simplicity and refinement, with a focus on understated elegance and the delicate interplay of colors and patterns.
In terms of style, Hanfu offers a greater variety, adapting to the cultural and social contexts of different dynasties. The kimono, while also evolving, maintains a more consistent overall style, characterized by its loose, straight-line cuts and distinctive wearing method.
In conclusion, Hanfu and kimono are not only garments but also cultural artifacts that encapsulate the unique histories and identities of their respective nations. Their study and appreciation offer valuable insights into East Asian cultural diversity and the evolution of traditional craftsmanship, inspiring modern fashion and cultural innovation while safeguarding the rich heritage they represent.